Bulk floor Bolars

According to the instructions bolaris CB1030 should be applied in strips of 40 cm wide. In reality, you need to distribute everything with a spatula, then align everything with the rule otherwise it does not align. The filling itself does not cause any special problems. After everything is flooded in the room, there should be no drafts, otherwise the top layer will set, dry up and crack too quickly. You can go in special studs after 24 hours, but traces remain.

one of the cheapest building mixtures of its class

does not spread, you need to customize with a spatula,
It is advisable to rub into the floor, using force so that there is reliable contact, otherwise it will lag behind the base
After setting, you need to cover with a film, otherwise it is guaranteed to crack
And now the question is - is it worth the small savings of all this fuss?

Used bolars CB 1030 for pouring a warm floor, which is quite allowed according to the instructions. All proportions were strictly observed. The layer thickness is about 2 centimeters. After being poured, I began to wait until the mixture completely dried. Many recommend 7-10 days. On day 5, small cracks appeared, and after another two days the whole pieces began to swell. He opened the most bloated place without much difficulty. I saw the following picture. On top of the shell is about 8 mm. The layer is very dense and strong, apparently this is the way it should be everywhere, and under it there is a mixture of sand with some other. Some stratifications, semi-solid fractions that can be simply kneaded by hand. I'm in shock! Now you have to completely tear the entire floor and start all over again

not

unsuitable for work

Flooded the bulk floor last month. They worked together, a friend stirred, and strictly according to the instructions indicated on the package. But the mixture was not in a hurry to spread, so I had to disperse it with a spatula.
Filled in small patches gradually moving to the door. It’s very convenient to work; one works only on a batch, but I think only about leveling. The floor in the room was very uneven, large differences and pits. Later I was told that the biggest potholes had to be laid with tile glue. As it turned out, the bolars gives a lot of shrinkage in thick layers. Therefore, such places must once again pass with a needle roller. And one more thing, all sorts of influx near the walls and other jambs, you need to fix immediately and not after the mixture hardens. Then it will be quite problematic.

good combination price quality

quite specific in the work, there are a lot of nuances about which neither the sellers nor the instructions speak, but they really enrage

I am engaged in professional repairs, I want to say that the quality of the self-leveling floor very much depends on its implementation methodology and work experience. I have been using Bolaris CB 1030 for several years. The main reason for choosing the extreme low cost of the material. Immediately make a reservation, the choice was not mine, but the customer. Therefore, I had to work with what he brought. At first, there were problems too, and cracked, and lagged behind the base, and blew, but then got used to it and now there are no complaints from customers at all.
The pouring process itself is as follows:

I apply a small amount of the same Bolaris and quickly rub it into the surface with a spatula. Then I pour the necessary amount of self-leveling mixture and roll it with a needle roller.

cheap floor, dries quickly, gives a durable ball under the tile

you need to be able to work with him, technologists I'm quite specific and time-consuming

About half a year ago I was doing the filling of the floor in my bathroom. Since there was no special money for repairs, I had to buy something simpler and cheaper I had to buy something simpler and cheaper. Therefore, I took moisture resistant Bolaris. After pouring, I did not particularly look at the cracks, although they were. I laid the tile on the Volmovsky glue on top. Six months have passed, the tile does not lag behind, in one place a small crack went between the tiles. Again smeared it with grout, while holding on.

When I did the second time it turned out much better. There were practically no cracks. But I had to tinker a lot with the floor. It was maximally cleaned of construction screed and primed 3 times.

Gives a pretty solid surface, affordable cost

It’s necessary to tinker a lot to prepare the foundation qualitatively, it doesn’t spread out on the floor, it needs to be completely finished with a spatula

The bulk floor was poured by Bolaris SV 210. In less than a week, he stood on end in some places And in a couple he fell behind the screed and bays. The fill was done in the new house for another two years, and it did not pass from the task. The layer is about 2 to 6 mm thick. But, this is the difference in the whole kitchen, it is more than 10 squares. After I opened several particularly problematic areas, I saw that the cracks were on the screed. That is, problems with the bulk floor clearly went along these cracks. As specialists explained, these are problems with shrinkage at home. Situations advised only one very well primed base. Use Britons in several layers of soil with deep impregnation, and then treat them with concrete contact from above. I covered the slots with tile glue so that the floor would not leak to the neighbors.
So far, on the third day, cracks are not yet visible.

pretty cheap mix

spreads badly have to modify the rule